Tomatoes: Start Small, Then Grow Them All!

It always breaks my heart a little when I have a friend or customer tell me they wish they were good with plants, but they just “have a black thumb.” I don’t believe in “black thumbs.” I think most plant mistakes are usually due to lack of information, or outright misinformation. In our age, many people automatically turn to the internet for guidance or they walk into a big box store to pick up a plant.

Unfortunately with gardening, and especially with growing your own food, success depends on knowing what to plant, when to plant and how to plant it. We live in a very unique climate here in Tallahassee, and the varieties, planting dates and planting techniques are very different than they are in other areas. You might be able to buy a dill plant in July, but it’s just going to die as soon as you plant it; dill can’t survive the heat of July here. Plant garlic in the spring and you might get a plant, but no tasty bulbs. It’s not your fault, and believe me I have killed my fair share of plants too before I learned.

This brings me to tomatoes. I like to think of them as the gateway vegetables that lead into the wide and rewarding world of growing your own food. They are highly productive in terms of space, and their homegrown flavor far outweighs the unripe, tasteless ones you find in the grocery. So it’s always disappointing when I hear someone say they tried tomatoes, but they just can’t grow them. It’s not that they can’t, as long as they have some space and some sun, they just need some guidance.

I always recommend beginners start with cherry-type tomatoes. The smaller the tomatoes, the better chance of success you have. Most beginners want to start with the big, round, red tomatoes that they are familiar with and this is a mistake. Cherry tomatoes are closer to the first wild tomatoes that originated in the Andean mountains of South America. Our big red tomatoes are highly cultivated selections and hybrids of the small wild tomatoes. As we have selected for traits we like such as flavor, size and shelf-life, we lose the natural traits they evolved to withstand pests, disease, extreme temperatures and drought, thus making the plants weaker and more susceptible to these ailments.

Cherry tomatoes and other types of smaller tomatoes are less cultivated and therefore tend to withstand these afflictions and still manage to be very productive. They are more tolerant of drought, shade, overwatering, pests and disease. Here are a few of my favorite varieties that are tough, reliable producers here in Tallahassee;

‘Sungold’- a tangerine colored hybrid, is one of my favorite cherry tomatoes. Its burst of warm, fruity flavor is so sweet, it’s like garden candy. I end up eating handfuls right off the vine. Luckily they are so productive, you will still have plenty to bring to the kitchen after you gobble your fill in the garden.

• ‘Napa Rose’-I grew this rosy red cherry for the first time last year. It has a very unique, sweet but full-bodied and complex flavor-really tasty! It also just kept pumping out tomatoes long after the others in the same bed had succumbed to the heat and rain.

• ‘Riesentraube’-the name of this old German heirloom translates to “Giant Bunch of Grapes.” The sweet red fruit grow in large clusters and have a rich, full classic tomato flavor.

• ‘Matt’s Wild Cherry’-deep red tiny tomatoes just keep coming on a plant that may take over your garden. Delicious flavor and the plants are unstoppable.

Although cherry tomatoes are more tolerant of shade, they do best planted in full sun. How you plant your tomatoes is crucial to your success. I teach a workshop about choosing and planting tomatoes called Totally Tomatoes (information below). Here are a few tips; cherry tomato plants are much more successful in containers than the large tomato varieties, but make sure you plant them in an adequate sized container. I recommend at least a seven gallon size. If you’re planting in the ground, be sure to give each plant adequate space, 3-4 feet each.

In my garden, the majority of cherry tomatoes never make it to the kitchen. They are so perfect for snacking in the garden while you work. However, they are delicious on salads, in stews, savory pies and even on shish-kabobs! I hope you give them a try, you will be well rewarded.

Centipedes, Millipedes and Squash Vine Borers

Adult Squash Vine Borer, Photo by Jeff Hahn

We got a question today from a customer who says centipedes are damaging the roots of his squash plants. "I noticed a bunch (maybe 50) centipedes on the roots of my squash plants."

First of all, they are probably millipedes. Centipedes (which have one set of legs per segment) would be eating other insects. Millipedes (two sets of legs per segment) are sometimes found in large numbers in moist garden soil that contains a lot of organic matter because they feed mainly on decomposing organic matter. Sometimes they will damage young seedlings, but usually the problem starts otherwise; and the millipedes are eating the damaged, rotting stems and roots. For instance, if your soil is staying too wet or if you’re watering late in the day, the problem may have started with root rot. Or if you have squash vine borers, the millipedes will feed on the damaged stems. If you do think your problem is starting and ending with millipedes, I’d apply some diatomaceous earth (or Permaguard which is diatomaceous earth with pyrethrin) around the base of the plant and wherever it touches the soil. Do not use more than you have to however, as this will affect your earthworms also.

In any case, count on squash vine borers to cause problems with this crop. I recommend drenching the stems of your squash plants (especially at the base) with Thuricide (liquid Bt) at least a couple times per week and more if you have time. The moths will lay eggs at the base of your plants, but they will be protected when the larva hatches if it has to eat its way through Bt to get into the stem (the borers/larva will be dead before they can do any real damage). Keep an eye out for the moths which are active during the day. As you can see from the photo, they’re pretty distinctive. Kill them whenever you can, and increase the Bt treatments while they’re active.

 One more caution about watering. You’ll avoid a lot of problems simply by watering early and giving the plants time to dry before evening, but be aware that overhead irrigation will wash the Bt off the squash stems. Drip irrigation solves this problem and (since it does not get the foliage wet) relieves the necessity to water early. If this is not an option, you may want to increase the number of Bt treatments to replace product that has been washed off.

Frankly if I did not love yellow crookneck squash and zucchini as much as I do (and if homegrown squash did not taste so much better than what you get at the store), I would not go to this much trouble. But I do (and it does), so it’s definitely worth the extra work.

Garden to Table: Roasted Fennel and Beet Salad with Tahini Herb Sauce

We are huge fennel fans here at the nursery. It’s a lovely vegetable and very versatile. Fennel is often sliced thin and eaten raw in salads or tossed in a creamy dressing and served as more of a slaw. When eaten raw, it’s crunchy, with a faint anise flavor, which is why I think some people shy away from it. Once it’s roasted or grilled, that anise flavor tames down and the fennel takes on a subtle, sweet flavor. The whole bulb, including the stalks and fronds are edible. I like to save the fronds for garnish and even sprinkle them on other dishes throughout the week. 

Parsley and Dill are also very good, versatile herbs that go well in sauces, soups, stews, salads and many other dishes that accompany this dish. Oh and we certainly cannot forego mentioning how all three of these herbs are great host plants for the black swallowtail buttery. Stop by the nursery to see our herb selection and more butterfly/herb gardening info. 

This recipe is what Elizabeth calls the "perfect winter salad" equipped with her favorite winter herbs and vegetables.

Ingredients:

For the salad:
2 medium-sized fennel bulbs, trimmed and cut into 1/2 inch wedges (save the fronds for garnish)
4 beets, peeled and cut into 1/2 inch chunks
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
Pinch of black pepper
1 cup French green lentils, rinsed and picked over
2 tablespoons fennel fronds
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
2 tablespoons finely chopped dill

For the sauce:

1 garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 1/2 tablespoons tahini
1/2 teaspoon local honey
1/4 cup finely chopped parsley
1/4 cup finely chopped dill
1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Salt and pepper to taste

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 425ºF.

2. Toss the fennel and beets with the olive oil, salt and pepper. Transfer to a baking sheet and roast in the oven until tender and lightly browned, about 25 minutes, stirring halfway through cooking.

3. While the vegetables are roasting, place the lentils in a saucepan with 2 cups of water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer uncovered until the lentils are tender, about 20-25 minutes. Drain and set aside.

4. Combine all the ingredients for the sauce in a small bowl and whisk until smooth and creamy. Taste test and adjust seasonings if need be.

4. To serve, divide the lentils between 4 plates and top with the roasted vegetables. Drizzle with the sauce and garnish each plate with fennel fronds, parsley and dill. Season with additional salt and pepper.