A Dead Tree is Full of Life

Lake Lafayette. Alicia Devine/Tallahassee Democrat

If you have ever paddled Lake Lafayette, you might have noticed there is an abundance of snags in the middle of and encircling the lake–dead trees that have been left standing to complete their life cycle naturally. Every single one of them is being utilized, whether it is a majestic great blue heron nesting at the top, or the tiniest beetle crawling through the crevices. While we may not all have the pleasure of observing a great blue heron in our front yard, snags are extremely important in an ecosystem, and they can be just as important in our own habitat at home. 

Many of us faced devastation in regards to our recent tornadoes, and now plenty of people are dubious of having looming pines near their homes. It is easy for us Tallahassee natives to take for granted our beloved canopy that we have had for the past 100 years, and seeing our old trees take a dramatic blow is hard to handle. You may be stuck in this limbo of thinking about replacing the canopy loss and giving back to our urban ecosystem, but also live in fear of mother nature destroying what you already have around you. 

A wren’s nest at the base of an old snag at Native Nurseries. Photo by Rosey Melucci

There are wonderful native species options for filling the now odd looking hole in the sky; some of mine and my colleagues favorite wind resistant canopy trees are winged elm, swamp chestnut oak, shumard oak, red maple, bald cypress, basswood, and blackgum tupelo. Always remember when you are planting a tree, you are planting for future generations. It will provide cooling shade and wildlife benefits before it will reach a size to threaten your home. If you’re looking for some convincing on replanting a pine, I highly suggest reading Donna Legare’s article from 2022, The Importance of Pines In Our Urban Forest. 

Replacing the canopy may not appeal to you due to fear and mistrust, so there are also fantastic native understory species that usually never exceed 30 feet tall to somewhat fill the void like fringe tree, flatwoods plum, silverbell, and chalk maple. If you are hesitant to replant anything and are making the decision to take trees away to prevent potential damage, I would like to encourage “topping” the trees that make you uneasy, instead of completely taking them out. This practice, sometimes called topping or lopping a tree, is when the entire crown of a mature tree is removed, leaving the trunk standing as tall as you wish. A good snag can be any size naturally, but in the landscape an eight to twenty foot range is the safest. Always be aware of any unnecessary risks to targets of value such as people, parked cars, and houses that the snag could damage if it fails structurally. It is advisable to first consult with a certified arborist who has experience with wildlife snags. 

Dead trees, or snags, mingled with living specimens that are standing around Native Nurseries property. O

Native pine trees make the ideal snag, for they do not sucker when topped. Hardwoods like sweetgum for example, make just as nice of a snag in the long run, but require a little extra maintenance at first, for they will start to send suckers through the top and roots and need to be trimmed back. Birds like woodpeckers, owls, bluebirds, titmice, wrens, nuthatches, and chickadees are all cavity nesting birds, relying on cavities in snags and living trees to house their young. But they are not the only ones using snags for homes; squirrels, opossums, and racoons also use snags as habitat. When the snag eventually falls and becomes a log, there are even more critters that utilize the “dead” tree. Snails, worms, grubs, fungi, beetles, and spiders all use the log, and even more so the snakes, lizards, frogs, toads, mammals, and birds that feed on these forest floor dwellers.

Snags and stumps also make excellent growing platforms for some of our favorite native climbing species. At Native Nurseries, there is a snag by our back pond that is covered in native crossvine, and it is a sweet surprise in spring when you notice a flower has fallen to the ground, only to look up and see an abundance of salmon colored blooms forming a beautiful crown atop the snag– a lovely pit stop for hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies. If you’ve got a snag of decent stature and plenty of sun, almost any of our native vines would perform well, such as passionvine, honeysuckle, yellow jessamine, crossvine, and pipevine. Making a snag out of that tree you were once frightened of and planting a native vine at the base can give you peace of mind, and a peaceful feature of your landscape. 

Female pileated woodpecker feeds her young in the cavity she excavated in a snag. Photo by Tara Tanaka

When addressing a dead or dying tree, or a tree that makes you nervous to be under, instead of jumping to removal and eradication to soothe your woes, think about the life that still lies within the tree, and the life that it could have. You may find that the dead tree's second life is even more joyous than the first.

Splish Splash – We’re Taking a Bird Bath!

Using a stone in the middle can allow birds to get out of the water and dry off before taking flight. Photo by Kathy Kinsey.

Attracting birds and insects to your yard can be as simple as keeping clean, fresh water. During the heat of our summer and times of drought, a simple bird bath can provide a sanctuary for all wildlife. It does not have to be large or fancy, in fact some of the best bird baths are small and low maintenance. When it comes to water depth, select a shallow bath of about one to two inches deep. Songbirds need shallow water to bathe in, although they can drink from deeper depths.

If you know you have raccoons running rampant in your neighborhood, also consider the height and weight of your bird bath. Many of us prefer not to have raccoons in our bird bath, nor do we wish for it to be smashed to bits, so always be mindful of the material from which your bath is made. A bird bath that is too light can be easily knocked over by any animal larger than a bird. Luckily there are plenty of concrete and stone options available that are both practical and eye appealing. Wandering cats can also be a nuisance when trying to provide a water source, so consider selecting a sturdy bath with a tall pedestal, and do not plant dense shrubbery around the base that would hide predators from birds.

When thinking of where in your yard to position your beautiful, strong new bird bath, be sure to keep some distance between the bath and the bird feeder. Leftover seeds and cast aside hulls can quickly dirty the water. To make it easier for yourself, place your bird bath in a spot that is also accessible to the garden hose.

Keeping your bird bath clean and water replenished is fundamental. It is recommended to change your bird bath water at least every three days to prevent mosquitoes from breeding, to remove disease organisms from bird droppings, and to keep the algae at bay. It is not necessary to scrub the algae off of the bottom of the bath; remember that natural ponds have algae growing on nearby rocks and logs. However, if you like that spotless white bird bath look, you can clean the bird bath by using a bleach and water solution. Be sure to rinse the bath thoroughly afterward to remove any remaining residue.

Bird baths can help attract and support a diverse array of bird and insect species in backyard ecosystems. Photo by Donna Legare.

The most enjoyable aspect of positioning your bird bath is placing it where it can be easily observed. My bird bath at home is just outside our living room window, so when I am reading or drinking my morning coffee, I can easily observe the song birds savoring the fresh water. I may be so lucky as to spot a butterfly or bee resting on the edge, taking in a quick sip from the shallow bowl before going about their business. We are lucky to also have a well-established but young live oak that is perfect for perching birds waiting in line to use the bird bath.

Planting native plants near your bird bath can add another layer of attractiveness, as well as bring in even more birds and insects. Around the bath, I have planted shade-loving nectar sources such as Indian pink and woodland phlox. Many of our native plants provide berries and seeds for birds, but more importantly they draw in beneficial insects that feed upon the native plants and complete the cycle of the food chain.

Changing the Landscape One Word at a Time

Language is everything. Language determines our thoughts, feelings, and how we view the world around us. The words we use are so powerful, they can even shape the landscape.

Recently I was listening to a friend of mine make some drastic complaints. They kept going on and on about how these ‘invasive’ plants keep overtaking their yard, and no matter what action they tried, the plants kept popping up again and again. Due to my friend’s stress, I assumed that they were dealing with some of the typical Tallahassee problem plants like skunkvine or Nandina. After listening a bit more, I had to ask which species they were battling. They responded, “oh you know, some invasives like smilax, Virginia creeper, and cherry laurel.”

I have seen what true invasives can do to the natural communities, and I had never even considered any of the species they mentioned to behave like invasive plants. I could not help myself, and skipped the politeness by correcting their language and said that none of the species they mentioned were listed as invasive species by the Florida Invasive Species Council (FISC), but they are all actually native to our region.

The invasive Ardisia crenata, commonly known as coral ardisia, poses a significant ecological threat by outcompeting native vegetation and disrupting local ecosystems. Photo by Chris Evans, University of Illinois, Bugwood.org.

My friend did not believe me at first, and then proceeded to ask me, “what exactly is the big difference between a native and invasive plant? I thought invasive meant a plant’s behavior?” While they were not too far off with the behavioral aspect, a species classified as invasive must meet three criteria.

The first being the species must be nonnative to the area of consideration. Second, the species must have been introduced to the area, intentionally or unintentionally. And lastly, the species causes, or is likely to cause, environmental harm, economic harm, and/or harm to humans.

One thing to always consider is the region you are located in. While some species may be listed as invasive in our area of North Florida, the species may be more easily managed up in the mountains or down at the coast. Some examples of invasive species to Tallahassee are coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), glossy privet (Ligustrum lucidum), and skunkvine (Paederia foetida). These plants meet all three criteria to be invasive – they are nonnative to our region, were introduced here, and cause harm to native species by outcompeting them for space and nutrients.

So, what damage actually comes from using the term ‘invasive’ so casually and incorrectly? And what terms would we use instead? When getting ready to teach my invasive plant workshop at Native Nurseries, I found an excellent publication by the University of Florida called ‘Standardized Invasive Species Terminology For Effective Outreach Education’. This article broke down different words to better identify the “problems” we deal with in the landscape.

They spoke of seven words total, defining what they mean and how to use them. One of the most important words that everyone should be using is ‘nuisance’. When a species is a nuisance, it is causing environmental or economic harm, but the key difference between a nuisance and an invasive is that an invasive has to be introduced to the area at risk. A native species can be a nuisance, like with my friend’s problems of smilax and cherry laurel, but by definition a native species can never be an invasive species. The term invasive carries extra meaning to it that nuisance does not; it carries the weight of being nonnative, introduced, and extremely harmful.

The more we overuse and incorrectly label species as ‘invasive’, the more diluted the word becomes. An invasive species is a dangerous one, and it is important that we correctly identify those species, and not judge a plant solely on its behavior.

Next time you are digging up extra oak saplings or relocating passionvine that has gone rampant, do not think of them as invasive species, but rather nuisance ones. When it comes to learning, shaping, and adding to your local landscape, it is essential to use the right word at the right time.